A step-by-step tutorial for hanging image body molding wainscoting and a shortcut to make it simpler.
Be careful, y’all! The nursery makeover has formally began and it’s getting reeeaaal!
I discussed within the final tour-through-my-brain-about-this-makeover that I saved envisioning plenty of white image body molding on the partitions (or wainscotting… potato/potahto).
This was the nursery a couple of weeks in the past.
Not gonna lie… I used to be actually intimidated by this one. (Primarily as a result of this former English trainer does not do math, and molding requires fairly a little bit of it.)
However Robert and I knocked out this one in two days, and it was not almost as sophisticated as I assumed it will be. Woot!
DIY Image Body Molding
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1. We measured the entire widths of our partitions first.
2. Then, to hold the chair rail, we marked 36″ from the ground onto the wall to set the peak of the place we wished our chair rail to be.
3. Utilizing a stage, we marked a horizontal line all the way in which across the room on the 36″ top.
4. Then, utilizing the miter noticed, Robert reduce his first chair rail piece at a straight reduce to the width of our first wall.
5. We utilized Loctite adhesive to the again of the reduce chair rail piece, positioned it onto the straight line we had beforehand marked with the extent on the wall, and pressed the chair rail into place.
6. Utilizing the pneumatic brad nailer, we nailed the chair rail piece to the wall.
7. For the subsequent chair rail piece adjoining the one we first hung, Robert reduce the chair rail piece to the width of the subsequent wall at a forty five diploma angle.
8. Then, utilizing a coping noticed, he carved out the profile of the 45 diploma reduce on the chair rail to make it match comfortable to the design on the already hung chair rail piece.
9. He continued that strategy of measuring, reducing at a forty five diploma, coping, making use of Loctite, and nailing the chair rail all the way in which across the room.
10. So as to add the image body molding, we determined what number of frames we wished to position on every wall based mostly on the measurements.
Not one of the partitions must have frames which are all the peerlessly precise width all the way in which across the room, however you do need them to be the identical width per every particular person wall.
Our largest wall was 123″ broad. We determined to position 3 frames on the wall with 3.5″ areas in between to make every body 36.3″ broad every. (The three/8″x4″ board is technically 3.5″ broad, which we used for the spacer.)
To determine the maths, use this formulation:
Complete wall width – (3.5 x complete variety of vertical areas between frames) / complete variety of frames = width of every particular person body
For the opposite partitions, we knew we wished every from to be as near 36.3″ facet as potential. Utilizing that very same formulation, one 81″ broad wall would have 2 frames at 35.25″ broad. And one 94″ broad wall would have 2 frames at 41.75″ broad.
To the bare eye, these three completely different sizes on these three completely different partitions would carefully appear to be the identical width.
11. Utilizing the three/8″x4″ board, we pressed it towards the highest and backside of the chair rail, baseboard, and crown molding and towards the entire corners within the room to mark the areas with a pencil.
12. To mark the areas between the place the frames would go, we divided the wall’s measurements by the variety of frames.
123″ wall divided by 3 frames can be 41″. We penciled a tick mark at 41″ and 82″ to seek out the areas between the frames. We positioned the center of the spacer at these tick marks and drew traces with a stage to mark the areas for all 3 particular person frames.
13. As soon as the entire partitions have been marked with our frames’ outlines, we began measuring every horizontal line for the tops and bottoms of the frames.
14. Then, we reduce each bit of finger-jointed molding to the measurements of our frames at a forty five diploma angle on the miter noticed. We labored in batches by reducing the highest and backside lengths of the frames first.
15. To connect the finger-jointed molding to the partitions, we utilized Loctite adhesive, positioned it alongside the penciled line, and hooked up with the pneumatic brad nailer.
16. As soon as we had the horizontal items hooked up to the wall, we measured the vertical facet items, reduce them at 45 levels on the miter noticed, and repeated the method of Loctite and brad nailing.
The entire course of was loads of measuring and reducing, however a minimum of utilizing a spacer helped reduce down on an enormous chunk of the work.
It was tedious however price each single second! Ahhh so beautiful!
Right here’s the dramatic earlier than together with the place we at the moment are:
Now that your complete room’s image body molding is up, subsequent on the record is to caulk and paint.
Then we’ll be ripping out the previous carpet to refinish the present hardwood flooring beneath and changing the ceiling fan with one thing extra on the female facet.
If y’all want us, we’ll be caulking over right here for the subsequent century.
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